Apparently that’s today. Who decides these things? But I have to say that sipping a coffee while reading a couple of chapters of my book is one of the greatest treats I can think of. My favourite coffee mug is the one in the pic above. It is exactly the right size, the thickness of the rim is perfect and it celebrates one of my favourite authors. What more could you want? The book in the pic is My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante. I have mixed feelings about this novel and have not yet read the others in the series. I wrote a “review” of it which you can find in the ‘Reading’ section of this website. I’d be interested to know what others think about the work of this generally well-reviewed and mysterious writer. Happy international coffee day everyone!
Category: Food
Street food
There are scores (probably hundreds) of stalls selling all kinds of food along Ipoh’s streets every day. We drive by and are intrigued by the variety of food on offer, from whole or peeled fruit, to baked goods, to hot dishes served on rice or noodles – always in the ubiquitous pink plastic bags that you then see strewn all over the place. We’ve never bought anything from a street stall because we have sensitive antipodean stomachs that cannot even cope with drinking water straight from the tap! Hygiene standards are patchy and there is no refrigeration in sight. There is a vibrant night food market that we have been to several times. You choose your food from any number of stalls and the stall holder brings it to you when it is ready. It is easy to pick us out of a crowd but I am not sure how they find locals among the hundreds of tables that fill the area. It is a pleasant experience, eating outdoors in the balmy evening among crowds of local people. However, we’ve not been back since our last street meal had us running for the bathroom the following morning!
A friendly face
One of our friends from Auckland (actually our daughter’s uni friend!) who grew up in KL is here visiting her family. We met up this week. It was such a pleasure to talk to someone who knows what it’s like to live in both Malaysia and New Zealand. We chatted for almost two hours. I probably talked too much, not that she gave any indication of being bored! We chose a restaurant that served local fare – she wanted some Malaysian food and I chose nasi lemak, which could be considered the national dish here. Though there are many variations, nasi lemak consists of fragrant rice and a hot spicy sauce with side dishes of sliced cucumber, roasted peanuts, boiled eggs and small fried fish. However, the food was almost incidental to our very enjoyable afternoon.
Tropical fruit
Living in Malaysia we have access to a mouth-watering array of fruit. Papaya, mangoes, a huge variety of melon. My usual breakfast is a large bowl of fruit topped with natural yoghurt and muesli. Yum! We can also buy fruit imported from New Zealand and we do – apples, kiwifruit and, now appearing in the stores, large red juicy strawberries. However, we have not yet acquired the taste for durian, called the king of fruits here. The smell puts us off! When it is high durian season, you can smell it as you walk into the shopping centre, long before you even get to the supermarket. Most hotels have “No durians” signs outside their doors and often in a lift you will see a sign of a durian cancelled with a large red cross. Not sure if we’ll ever get past the smell of the durian to experience the taste.
Free range chicken
One of my New Zealand friends who grew up in Ipoh has been over here visiting her parents. She and her mother took me to their local market early yesterday morning. I had expressed a wish to buy free-range chicken so they took me to the appropriate stall. There was my chook running around with several others in a cage beside the chopping block. Having ascertained what I wanted, the stall vendor grabbed it and expertly despatched it. With typical meat-eating hypocrisy, I felt really sorry for the chook. We wandered around the market, looking at the inviting piles of fresh vegetables and fruit on offer. When we got back to the chicken stall, the beautiful brown chicken, which had been alive just minutes before, was in two bags – one of filleted, skinned chicken pieces and the other of bones, which I will use to make stock. Will the experience make me a vegetarian? I doubt it. But I console myself with the thought that this was a kampung (village) chicken and it got to experience some fresh air before being served up for dinner in my house.
Wine with lunch
On the days I spend in KL, I usually treat myself to lunch, ordering something like smoked salmon salad or vegetable quiche – things that are not on the menu in any restaurant in Ipoh. But almost more important than the food, is the place itself. I choose a restaurant that has white tablecloths and serves the food on china plates. Most Ipoh eateries eschew tablecloths and you often get your (very tasty) food on a plastic plate. Yesterday I was at one of KL’s stupendous shopping centres where I found a restaurant that ticked all the boxes, plus there was wine on the menu! It is rare for me to be able to order a glass of wine so I thought why not? There I was at my beautiful table with my delicious meal on a white china plate, my glass of wine and my book. In came a woman and her daughter, both with their hair veiled and dressed in voluminous garments. The mother gave me a very disapproving look, the corners of her mouth turned down. They sat at a table a good distance away from me. The photograph above was taken at Wither Hills in Marlborough on a splendid summer’s day. Now that was a glass of wine to remember!
Moon cakes
Hari Raya dates have been replaced in all the shops by displays of moon cakes. These cakes are round pastries filled with a rich thick filling usually of red bean or lotus seed paste. They are eaten as part of Mid-Autumn Festival celebrations. This festival dates from the fifth century, involves lunar worship and is associated with the legends of Chang’E, the mythical moon goddess of immortality. I found a lovely tea shop in central Ipoh this week. It has a beautiful cafe where one can drink tea from delicate china cups and eat Chinese delicacies, including moon cakes. Since I was on my own I didn’t stay but I did buy some cakes – I chose green tea pastries filled with date paste (and no sugar added!). It is an acquired taste but, having just eaten the last wedge of the first cake, I can report that it is growing on me. Perhaps next time we’re in town, we’ll sit down for tea and moon cakes – join us if you like!
Shopping in KL
I spent several hours in the 1 Utama shopping centre in Kuala Lumpur this week. Utama is the Malay word for ‘main’. This is the largest shopping centre in KL and the fourth largest shopping centre in the world apparently. I went there because it is a convenient taxi ride away from Jim’s KL office and because there are some stores there that I wanted to go to. But it is overwhelming and exhausting finding one’s way around and one trudges for miles to get to a particular store. What struck me most was that the only people you see in those glitzy designer stores are the shop assistants. How do stores like Gucci, Armani and Tiffany survive when they never seem to have any customers? However, there is an café in 1 Utama that makes a coffee like one I would enjoy in New Zealand and I know exactly where it is. I headed there first. Then I went to the large bookstore but came away with only one book. The selection of books in English is very limited and most of the books displayed I’ve either read or I don’t want to read. I also went to the upmarket grocery store where they import food from all over the world, including New Zealand and Australia. This is indulgent because there is plenty of good food in our three local supermarkets in Ipoh. I bought kiwifruit, new potatoes, Marmite, hummus and, best of all, a beautiful salmon fillet which they packed on ice for me. I had it for dinner last night and it was delicious, especially as I also opened the bottle of New Zealand sauvignon blanc that I had lugged the length of 1 Utama!
Cheers
I only drink three things – water, coffee and dry, white wine. All three present problems now that I am living in Ipoh. We can’t drink the water from the tap here. There is an abundance of cheap bottled water in the shops but I have a conscience around all those plastic bottles going into the landfill. So we have this system of boiling and refrigerating water every day, though I have this small anxiety about opening the fridge and finding no water in the jug – almost nightmarish because one needs to drink a lot in this hot climate! The coffee is usually sweet and white, and comes in already mixed sachets. Finding a strong coffee without sugar in a café is very difficult. However, we came across a small café in the old town, where you could actually smell the coffee and they were happy to serve me a cup with a little jug of milk on the side. It felt like a victory! The absence of wine is remarkable, given that there is plenty of beer, Scotch, and other spirits to be had wherever you go. There is a very small selection of wines in supermarkets and they are all very expensive. When we went to a roof top bar for the view of Ipoh and sun-downers, I resorted to a cocktail – hence this pic. I guess I’ll be healthier with only boiled water to drink!








