Category: Food

Vibrant Vienna

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Vienna is a beautiful city, perhaps the most beautiful city I’ve visited. You walk along a cobbled street, you look up and see lines of Baroque buildings surrounding a wide courtyard, often with a sparkling fountain in its centre. Or you head for the shade of an avenue of trees and at the end, you see a pair of perfectly matched museums – the Naturhistorisches (Natural History) and the Kunshistorisches (Art History) museums. They were commissioned by Franz Joseph 1 and built between 1871 and 1889.

Vienna’s majestic vistas owe much to its past as the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which was ruled by the Habsburgs for over 600 years. They had access to immense wealth and this shows in the palaces and churches they commissioned. Most impressive of all is their vast summer residence, the Schonbrunn Palace, which has over 1,400 rooms and expansive gardens. We ambled through the estate along with hundreds of other tourists and there was room for us all. We enjoyed coffee and apple strudel in the Gloriette cafe, which has a wonderful view of the gardens and the palace.

The two main churches in Vienna are the Romanesque/Gothic St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Baroque St Charles’s Church. The former is the seat of the Archbishop of Vienna and its spires dominate the Vienna skyline. It was built on an ancient Roman site and was eventually completed in 1578. The latter is dedicated to Saint Charles Borromeo, who was a leader of the Counter-Reformation. It was commissioned by Charles VI in 1713 in gratitude after a major plague epidemic and completed in 1737.

We were lucky to attend an organ recital in the Church of St Peter. Listening to music composed by Vivaldi and Bach, both of whom lived in Vienna, while gazing at the ornate Baroque interior of this 18th century church was a surreal experience. We also went to a concert of chamber music in a monastery where Mozart lived for a short while. The concert was held in a small, beautifully decorated concert hall called the Sala Terrena and was a programme of Viennese music played by a trio of violin, piano and cello. The cellist charmingly introduced the music and waxed lyrical about J S Bach – “not every musician believes in God but every musician believes in Bach”!

From sublime music to a reminder of Austria’s involvement in the devastation of the 1930s. The beautiful Judenplatz has a sombre memorial to the 65,000 Jewish Austrians who were killed in the 1930s. The square is on the site of a medieval synagogue, which was burned down during a pogram in 1420.

Our time in Vienna was not totally absorbed by palaces, churches and memorials. We were fortunate that our Austrian friends who live four hours away met us in Vienna and they were the most wonderful tour guides. We enjoyed delicious food in their company, including Wiener schnitzel and kaiserschmarrn (a kind of pancake served with fruit compote). We had coffee in a traditional coffee house, where Jim ordered English breakfast tea! and a drink in a roof-top bar with a splendid view of the roof and spires of St Stephen’s Cathedral.

Across the Tamar …

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… lies the beauty of Cornwall. Once again because I have read so much about it, I felt like I knew it, despite never having been there. Our accommodation was beside the harbour in Falmouth where hundreds of boats are moored and you can watch the ferries coming and going. One drizzly morning we took a ferry up the Falmouth and Truro rivers as far as the tiny hamlet of Malpas. It was magical in that light – the dense foliage that grows down to water level was reflected in the green of the river. There were glimpses of stone cottages, some of which housed smugglers back in the 18th century, and grand houses, the grandest belonging to Lord Falmouth, who still owns all the land you can see on both sides of the river. In one bay there is a pub that dates back to the 13th century and we had delicious fish pie there one evening.

We visited St Ives on a glorious day when the sun glinted off the turquoise sea and holidaymakers thronged the beaches, cafes and ice cream shops. We enjoyed exploring the narrow, winding lanes of Down-along and went into some of the numerous art galleries that are dotted around the town. The jewel in St Ives’s crown is the Tate – a spectacular building housing interesting art.

We also drove to Penzance and onto the charming town of Mousehole, with its quaint walled harbour and meandering lanes. Further along the coast is the Minack Theatre perched on the cliffs overlooking Porthcurnow beach. We enjoyed a performance there as the sun sank behind us, not sure whether we were more captivated by the actors on stage or the vista beyond it – darkening sea, rising moon and even a white-sailed boat moving gracefully through the scene.

Most of the tourists we encountered were from other parts of the country, with a smattering of Dutch and German visitors. Every English family it seems travels with their dog/s. There are dogs in hotels, in restaurants, on beaches, everywhere. On one train trip an imperious young woman with a large dog commanded us to move from our seats in order to give her dog more room – we did not comply!

Bath is pleasant enough …

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said Jane Austen, adding that after six weeks, she’d had enough. We were there fewer than six days but found it more than pleasant and can fully understand why it is regarded by some as the most beautiful city in England. The rows of Georgian terraced houses made from Bath stone, the wide pavements along the grander streets (called parades) and the narrow cobbled lanes, the Avon River and the shady parks make it a desirable destination.

Bath glories in its Jane Austen connections. Although she only lived there from 1801 to 1806, she set two of her novels in the city – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. 2025 is the 250th anniversary of her birth and Bath is celebrating, no more so than at the Jane Austen House, where one is met by people in Regency clothing and can get an idea of what a house was like in the Regency period. One can even view a life-size wax model of the author. But it is in walking along streets and through parks she mentions in her novels and letters, that you really get a feel for what it was like when she visited and conjured characters like Catherine Morland and Anne Elliott.

Bath is also ancient. The Romans established the settlement of Aquae Sulis and had an extensive network of publics baths using the hot water springs that still bubble up. They also built a temple dedicated to the goddess Minerva and the owl associated with her proliferates in tourist shops in the form of soft toys or cast statuettes. The oldest house in Bath, dating back to Roman times, is where the Sally Lunn’s bakery and shop is now. We bought a Bath bun there and enjoyed it toasted for breakfast in our attic apartment, which we walked up four flights to access. Getting our bags up there when we first arrived was a mission!

Another treat for this bibliophile was a long browse in the small but excellent Persephone Books. Having for many years subscribed to their newsletters and been gifted some of their beautiful books, it was a thrill to be there in person. Yes, Bath is indeed pleasant enough!

We came from away

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Nova Scotia is green with an abundance of trees growing right down to the water, and there are myriad waterviews in the charming city of Halifax. We stayed in a friend’s house nestled among tall trees on the edge of the Northwest Arm of the harbour, where we enjoyed Canadian hospitality and ate a lot of seafood – halibut, salmon, mussels and lobster. Halifax is overwhelmingly Scottish (not surprising in New Scotland!) and its colonial origins are on display at the Citadel historic site, dating back to 1749 when it became part of the defence complex built to defend the Halifax harbour from enemies of the British Empire. We heard the stirring sounds of bagpipes on our visit there and we climbed the ramparts to view the city and harbour below. We learnt a little about the Indigenous Mi’kmaw people who inhabited the Halifax region for 10,000 years before any colonial arrivals. Wandering along the harbourfront in brilliant sunshine, eating Cow’s Creamery ice cream (Canada’s best) was a very pleasant way to spend the afternoon.

Nova Scotia and the other provinces along the Atlantic coast are known collectively as the Maritimes. Fishing and boating are long-established here and there are many picturesque lighthouses in the bays and coves that are a feature of the coastline. Perhaps the most famous is the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove, which has a sweet, though possibly apocryphal, story associated with it.

Anne of the Island

We spent a couple of days on Prince Edward Island, which I have wanted to see since I first realised that Anne Shirley, or rather her creator, L M Montgomery, came from there. There is a Green Gables heritage centre featuring a house and barn that approximates the fictional home that Anne shared with Matthew and Marilla Cuthbert. But it was the surrounding countryside and lanes through the woods that really evoked the spirit of the books for me – Lover’s Lane and the Haunted Wood! The whole island is dreamy, basking in the hot summer sun, its famous red cliffs glowing. It would be wonderful to see it in all the seasons that Montgomery describes in the Anne books. As I wandered, episodes from the stories kept occuring to me – a clear case of association by place!

Lunar New Year

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When we lived in Malaysia, I remember waking to what sounded like a war zone and realising it was a midnight fireworks display to celebrate the new year. Once my heart had stopped pounding, I enjoyed watching the bright lights and hearing the sounds reverberating around the limestone hills that dot the Ipoh skyline. We were invited to lavish New Year meals by friends and neighbours, including Yee Sang (Prosperity Toss Salad) – huge platters of unmixed salad ingredients which all the diners then mix using extra-long chopsticks. The higher and more vigorously you toss, the better the year will be.

The shops were filled with red (prosperity) and gold (wealth, success) and people wore new clothes for the celebrations. There was also an abundance of mandarins – their bright orange symbolising gold and good fortune.

If there were children at the new year meals, you gave them small amounts of cash in bright red envelopes. It was all very festive and everywhere you went there were red and gold decorations.

Some of the zodiac signs were considered more propitious, like roosters, monkeys and dragons. However, I was delighted to discover that I was born in the year of the pig because I love them, particularly the gorgeous Kunekune pigs we have in New Zealand. We are about to go from the year of the dragon into the year of the snake. Who knows what that portends?

Xīnnián hǎo

Ngāmotu/New Plymouth …

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… is a small city on the west coast of New Zealand’s North Island, named after a Māori chief who signed the Treaty of Waitangi and renamed by the first English settlers who came from Plymouth.

On a recent visit, we stayed at the aptly named Kings & Queens Hotel Suites across the road from the spectacular Govett-Brewster art gallery.

One of my requirements when choosing accommodation is a bathtub because we only have a shower at home. After a day of exploring, relaxing in a bath is the ultimate luxury, which is exactly what I did after our bicycle ride along the coastal cycle/walkway. The hotel has four mountain bikes for use by guests (and there are e-bikes for hire too). The cycleway is mostly flat with small inclines easily negotiated by an inexperienced cyclist like me.

We cycled from the city near the famed Len Lye wind wand to the Te Henui Bridge and beyond. On our return we stopped for a cold drink and a bite of lunch at the container cafe at Fitzroy beach.
The Festival of Lights runs from just before Christmas until the last weekend in January in Pukekura Park. The park is illuminated by various spectacular light installations and is well worth viewing.

In the Kings & Queens precinct there are eight places to eat and drink. We enjoyed a pizza from Ms White’s Pizza with drinks from the adjacent Itch Wine Bar.

I can highly recommend the Petit Paris cafe for a cafe au lait and croissant or Billow Bakery, down a funky laneway, for a breakfast bun and a latte.

There was not much time for shopping this visit but there is a splendid Poppies bookshop, which has couches for relaxed browsing, and the Kina Design & Arts Space for unusual, locally made art works ranging from paintings to glassware to jewellery.

On our way back we detoured to Egmont National Park and drove all the way up to Manganui carpark. From up there, the view of Mount Taranaki is awe-inspiring and there are several tracks, including one that takes you right around the mountain.

We chose to walk the Kamahi Loop Track as our time was limited. Nicknamed the ‘goblin forest’ because the kamahi trees are covered in ferns and mosses, it was a delight on a sunny day with dappled shadows and sparkling creeks.

We had a delicious lunch at the Stratford Mountain House restaurant and then made our way home, stopping at the Pio Pio Berry Farm to load up on raspberries, blueberries and strawberries.

Strawberries

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Strawberries

There is a strawberry and blueberry farm close to where we live. During the short summer season we go down there every couple of days to buy some of their delicious fruit. We try to get our fill before the season ends and never tire of a breakfast bowl of red and blue fruit or a pink smoothie. I was at the farm gate this morning and noticed a blackboard sign beside the racks of fruit. It informed customers that the farm would not be taking advance orders over the holidays as they have done in past years. The reason for this was the abuse suffered by the farm staff from customers who were not able to place large Christmas orders due to the shortage of fruit. My pleasure at picking up my punnets of fruit was soured by this news. During the season of joy and goodwill to all, there are some who spoil it for everyone by ranting at hard-working berry pickers! Shame on them! Fred Rogers, who is played by Tom Hanks in a new movie called A Beautiful Day in the Neighbourhood, said “There are three ways to ultimate success: The first way is to be kind. The second way is to be kind. The third way is to be kind.” I hope 2020 will be a kinder year for all of us.

Raglan coconut yoghurt

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Readers of this blog will know that Raglan is our favourite place in New Zealand. At present we live just 40 minutes away and can visit often. We also love the coconut yoghurt (http://raglancoconutyoghurt.co.nz/) that is made there. In this country dominated by dairy farming, it was difficult for people to access non-dairy yoghurt and this product fills that gap. We eat it most mornings with our fruit and muesli and it is delicious! In addition, it comes in glass jars from which the labels are easily removed. You can then wash out the jar, take it to your favourite refillery and use it for whatever dry goods you need. In the photo above I’ve used the jar for shredded coconut – very appropriate.

Otorohanga

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I have not spent much time in Otorohanga, which according this billboard outside the town’s quaint railway station (where, by the way, you can get an impressive espresso), is New Zealand’s Kiwiana town. There are colourful hanging baskets along the main street, which is lined with the usual shops, banks, supermarket and pharmacy. I met my beloved at the Thirsty Weta (http://www.theweta.co.nz/) for lunch last week. With its fantastic name, this eatery has a great atmosphere and was cosy on a winter’s afternoon. The menu is not extraordinary but our chowder and salad were perfectly adequate and the coffee was good. After lunch I went on a little wander and came across the House of Deco (https://www.facebook.com/houseofdecovintageclothing/), which sells vintage and steampunk clothing. It is well worth a visit – the wares are interestingly displayed and the owner, Jan, is charming. We had a chat about where her customers come from – all over the world it seems!

Coffee culture

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It hasn’t taken us long to get back into New Zealand’s coffee culture. It was one of the things we missed most when living in Malaysia. This morning we went to Empire Cafe in Te Awamutu (https://www.facebook.com/empireespressobar/+). In addition to good coffee, which you could smell as you approached the door, there was cool music playing. When asked one of the young staff told us she puts together her own playlists and this was one of her favourite Saturday mixes. It was obviously aimed at clientele our age – rock favourites from the 60s and 70s – and one wall is covered in chalk drawings of album covers. Our delicious Hummingbird cake was accompanied by Raglan coconut yoghurt – yum! They are reluctant to serve take-away coffees in disposable cups and there are signs encouraging you to sit down for a coffee or use a keep cup. They also do not use straws. Empire Cafe runs a pay-it-forward lunch programme – you pay double for your order and they provide a lunch for a hungry school student. What a great place!