Bath is pleasant enough …

said Jane Austen, adding that after six weeks, she’d had enough. We were there fewer than six days but found it more than pleasant and can fully understand why it is regarded by some as the most beautiful city in England. The rows of Georgian terraced houses made from Bath stone, the wide pavements along the grander streets (called parades) and the narrow cobbled lanes, the Avon River and the shady parks make it a desirable destination.

Bath glories in its Jane Austen connections. Although she only lived there from 1801 to 1806, she set two of her novels in the city – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. 2025 is the 250th anniversary of her birth and Bath is celebrating, no more so than at the Jane Austen House, where one is met by people in Regency clothing and can get an idea of what a house was like in the Regency period. One can even view a life-size wax model of the author. But it is in walking along streets and through parks she mentions in her novels and letters, that you really get a feel for what it was like when she visited and conjured characters like Catherine Morland and Anne Elliott.

Bath is also ancient. The Romans established the settlement of Aquae Sulis and had an extensive network of publics baths using the hot water springs that still bubble up. They also built a temple dedicated to the goddess Minerva and the owl associated with her proliferates in tourist shops in the form of soft toys or cast statuettes. The oldest house in Bath, dating back to Roman times, is where the Sally Lunn’s bakery and shop is now. We bought a Bath bun there and enjoyed it toasted for breakfast in our attic apartment, which we walked up four flights to access. Getting our bags up there when we first arrived was a mission!

Another treat for this bibliophile was a long browse in the small but excellent Persephone Books. Having for many years subscribed to their newsletters and been gifted some of their beautiful books, it was a thrill to be there in person. Yes, Bath is indeed pleasant enough!

Lunar New Year

When we lived in Malaysia, I remember waking to what sounded like a war zone and realising it was a midnight fireworks display to celebrate the new year. Once my heart had stopped pounding, I enjoyed watching the bright lights and hearing the sounds reverberating around the limestone hills that dot the Ipoh skyline. We were invited to lavish New Year meals by friends and neighbours, including Yee Sang (Prosperity Toss Salad) – huge platters of unmixed salad ingredients which all the diners then mix using extra-long chopsticks. The higher and more vigorously you toss, the better the year will be.

The shops were filled with red (prosperity) and gold (wealth, success) and people wore new clothes for the celebrations. There was also an abundance of mandarins – their bright orange symbolising gold and good fortune.

If there were children at the new year meals, you gave them small amounts of cash in bright red envelopes. It was all very festive and everywhere you went there were red and gold decorations.

Some of the zodiac signs were considered more propitious, like roosters, monkeys and dragons. However, I was delighted to discover that I was born in the year of the pig because I love them, particularly the gorgeous Kunekune pigs we have in New Zealand. We are about to go from the year of the dragon into the year of the snake. Who knows what that portends?

Xīnnián hǎo

Ngāmotu/New Plymouth …

… is a small city on the west coast of New Zealand’s North Island, named after a Māori chief who signed the Treaty of Waitangi and renamed by the first English settlers who came from Plymouth.

On a recent visit, we stayed at the aptly named Kings & Queens Hotel Suites across the road from the spectacular Govett-Brewster art gallery.

One of my requirements when choosing accommodation is a bathtub because we only have a shower at home. After a day of exploring, relaxing in a bath is the ultimate luxury, which is exactly what I did after our bicycle ride along the coastal cycle/walkway. The hotel has four mountain bikes for use by guests (and there are e-bikes for hire too). The cycleway is mostly flat with small inclines easily negotiated by an inexperienced cyclist like me.

We cycled from the city near the famed Len Lye wind wand to the Te Henui Bridge and beyond. On our return we stopped for a cold drink and a bite of lunch at the container cafe at Fitzroy beach.
The Festival of Lights runs from just before Christmas until the last weekend in January in Pukekura Park. The park is illuminated by various spectacular light installations and is well worth viewing.

In the Kings & Queens precinct there are eight places to eat and drink. We enjoyed a pizza from Ms White’s Pizza with drinks from the adjacent Itch Wine Bar.

I can highly recommend the Petit Paris cafe for a cafe au lait and croissant or Billow Bakery, down a funky laneway, for a breakfast bun and a latte.

There was not much time for shopping this visit but there is a splendid Poppies bookshop, which has couches for relaxed browsing, and the Kina Design & Arts Space for unusual, locally made art works ranging from paintings to glassware to jewellery.

On our way back we detoured to Egmont National Park and drove all the way up to Manganui carpark. From up there, the view of Mount Taranaki is awe-inspiring and there are several tracks, including one that takes you right around the mountain.

We chose to walk the Kamahi Loop Track as our time was limited. Nicknamed the ‘goblin forest’ because the kamahi trees are covered in ferns and mosses, it was a delight on a sunny day with dappled shadows and sparkling creeks.

We had a delicious lunch at the Stratford Mountain House restaurant and then made our way home, stopping at the Pio Pio Berry Farm to load up on raspberries, blueberries and strawberries.

Strawberries

Strawberries

There is a strawberry and blueberry farm close to where we live. During the short summer season we go down there every couple of days to buy some of their delicious fruit. We try to get our fill before the season ends and never tire of a breakfast bowl of red and blue fruit or a pink smoothie. I was at the farm gate this morning and noticed a blackboard sign beside the racks of fruit. It informed customers that the farm would not be taking advance orders over the holidays as they have done in past years. The reason for this was the abuse suffered by the farm staff from customers who were not able to place large Christmas orders due to the shortage of fruit. My pleasure at picking up my punnets of fruit was soured by this news. During the season of joy and goodwill to all, there are some who spoil it for everyone by ranting at hard-working berry pickers! Shame on them! Fred Rogers, who is played by Tom Hanks in a new movie called A Beautiful Day in the Neighbourhood, said “There are three ways to ultimate success: The first way is to be kind. The second way is to be kind. The third way is to be kind.” I hope 2020 will be a kinder year for all of us.

The Magic Flute

The-Magic-Flute-AAF-Website-Mobile-750x600

I haven’t posted anything on my blog for a long time, mostly because we’ve returned to New Zealand and taken up our old lives and routines. It seemed that there was nothing that we hadn’t experienced before and hence nothing remarkable to blog about. But that changed over the weekend when we enjoyed a performance of Mozart’s The Magic Flute, which was part of the 2019 Auckland arts festival. This was the production from the Komische Oper Berlin co-directed by Barrie Kosky and Suzanne Andrade (British theatre group 1927) with animation by Paul Barritt. In addition to Mozart’s famous music ably played by the Auckland Philharmonia, the performance was remarkable for some fine singing and amazing animation instead of sets. Some of the animation was reminiscent of silent movies – warnings to Tamino and Papageno during their trial of silence, for example, were projected in huge words complete with exclamation points. The animation was inventive and amusing, resulting in laughter from the audience at times. It suited the fantastical plot of this opera though I found it distracting at times and I closed my eyes to concentrate on the singing. I also didn’t take to the Queen of the Night as a giant spider! But overall, it was a wonderful experience and the the applause at the final curtain was long and loud.

Waitangi weather

waitangi-day

Today is Waitangi Day, New Zealand’s national day and Aucklanders celebrated in magnificent summer weather. The bays along the waterfront were packed with picnickers, swimmers, paddle-boarders and kayakers. I wandered along Tamaki drive enjoying the views of the sparkling water and people watching. It was lovely to meet up with friends. I even had an ice-cream cone! A perfect summer’s day.

Summer in New Zealand

017

The pohutukawa are in bloom and the sky is bright blue. The days are cool and pleasant. We celebrated Christmas and New Year in Auckland with our girls and our family. We’ve had a couple of splendid beach days and some relaxation. But now it is full steam ahead helping our daughters move to Sydney and Dargaville (two hours north of Auckland) respectively where they are starting new jobs in January. It will be sad for us to think that they are no longer living in the same city but we are thrilled that they are moving on to the next phase of their lives. We still have a few days together in Auckland and intend to enjoy them fully.

Jingle bells

mid-valley-christmas

I’ve heard just about every version of this ubiquitous Christmas jingle after three days in KL, where every shop is cashing in on this Christian festival. It always seems strange to me that in Malaysia, where over 60% of people are Muslim and not even 10% are Christian, Christmas music and decorations are so prevalent. I snapped this photo from upstairs in the Mid Valley mall. It was teeming with people, many of whom were taking selfies in front of the elaborate decorations. It seemed ironic that that particular day was Maulidur Rasul (Prophet Muhammad’s birthday).

KLCC

img_3650

The Petronas Towers at KLCC are the emblem of Malaysia for many international and local visitors. There are hundreds of people at KLCC at any one time. It felt like there were thousands there yesterday afternoon when we arrived for the philharmonic concert in the splendid concert hall at the base of the towers. It was a dazzling programme with works by Tchaikovsky, Dukas, Rimsky-Korsakov and Stravinsky. The orchestra filled the stage and included two harps, an expanded percussion section and impressive woodwind and brass sections. But the hall was not nearly full and going out into the throng in the Suria mall afterwards, I felt it was a pity they hadn’t been there to experience it. Hundreds of people were enjoying the piped Christmas music, taking selfies in front of the cut-outs of Santa and his reindeer and shopping in the numerous designer stores that line the mall. Good on them but I think we had the more enjoyable experience.

Food for Deepavali

IMG_4532

We shared several Deepavali meals with friends and colleagues over the weekend. They couldn’t have been more hospitable and welcoming. And the deliciousness and quantity of the food was overwhelming. The amount of planning and sheer hard work that goes into the preparation of celebratory feasts like this is mind-boggling and the generosity of our friends here in Ipoh is amazing. We came home with containers full of food and will be continuing to enjoy Deepavali food for days to  come